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Arrow Archery

Can someone explain to me about archery arrows?

I am starting archery and I am trying to get a 50-55 lbs compound bow. I have had some experience with bows and am REALLY interested in them. I know alot about the bows but not much at all about the arrows. Could someone please explain to me and basics and what parts of the arrow are important-any anything else you can explain to me.
Thanks.

So, in a modern arrow you have a couple of parts:
1) Nock
2) Shaft
3) Insert (for the head)
4) head (this is the point)
5) Fletchings (feather)/vanes (plastic)

Many people assemble their own arrows, it is a bit cheaper, it gives you the equipment to repair your arrows if you break them and you can try some different stuff, like different length fletchings.

The most important thing for an arrow - particularly if it is something like wood or carbon - is to have the correct spine. This is in reference to the stiffness of the arrow. If the arrow is too far underspined it can explode in your bow. However, at 50 - 55 pounds, this isn't going to be a problem for you.

So, aluminum shafts are much cheaper than carbon. However, aluminum doesn't flex as much as carbon and still return to true. So, if you are punching paper at fixed distances so you are not likely to be whacking you arrows against the ground or rocks or other sorts of stuff, then aluminum will be fine. If you are field shooting you may want to move to a good quality carbon, as they can be more durable. Further, they are lighter for the same spine, so they are faster and therefore have more KE than aluminum. Again, none of that matters just for target shooting, but for hunting it may matter to you. However, I will say, thousands of animals are harvested every year by people shooting aluminum shafts, so it certainly isn't a requirement.

Since you are just beginning, I would definately start with aluminum arrows until you know what you are about in the sport. Even half a dozen is plenty to start with. Eventually, you will probably need more, but for a start this is fine.

Aluminum arrows are defined by 4 numbers - like 2312. The first two numbers are a reference to the diameter of the arrow, and the second two numbers are referring to the wall thickness of the aluminum. So a 2312 arrow vs. a 2117 is larger in diameter, but with thinner walls. Assuming something around a 28" draw length, and 125 grain field target heads, you can run 2312, 2117, 2215, 2020 pretty much about anything you can get your hands on. By the time you are good enough to have bent or creased these arrows by shooting really tight groups, you'll know enough and be ready to spend the money on carbons.

Regarding the other stuff?
Nocks - you want snap ons (the most common kind) that fit you string. Since strings are largely standard by weight if it snaps onto any 50 - 55 lb bow string it will snap on to yours.

Heads - I'm not going to talk about hunting broadheads, because that is a who subject unto itself. Rather for a 50 - 55 pound bow you want 100 - 125 grain heads to start with.

Inserts are standard and will come with an assembled arrow.

Fletchings vs. Vanes - Doesn't really matter. Vanes tend to last longer, again, with an assembled arrow it will come with these already attached.

Last point. If you are shooting a "pronghorn" arrow rest, you should have your nocks rotated so that the guide feather on a 3 fletch arrow is pointing DOWN, between the two prongs. Normally it is pointing out away from the bow. If you are shooting a fall away rest, or a springy or some other kind of more conventional rest, then you can leave them as normal. If you are shooting 4 fletch then it doesn't make that much difference.

Have fun,

Thinkingblade

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